Frequently Asked Questions
Welcome to the Blue Circle Cement products FAQ page.
What is the difference between Blue Circle General Purpose Cement and Blue Circle Mastercrete?
General Purpose Cement is a CEM II Portland-composite suitable for most general purpose applications. ‘Mastercrete’ cement is an enhanced CEM II cement; blending Portland cement and finely ground limestone with specially selected additives. Mastercrete has improved workability and is more resistant to freeze thaw attack and has the added benefit of being packed in our unique plastic packaging, making it 38% better for the environment than cement packed in paper sacks.
What is the difference between cement and concrete?
A good way to think of this is cement is to concrete as flour is to a cake. Cement is only one of the constituents of concrete and mortar. The various basic mixes can be defined as:
- Mortar – cement, fine aggregate (sand) and water.
- Concrete – cement, course aggregate (generally 10-20mm rocks), fine aggregate (sand) and water.
These can also contain various additives (such as lime) and admixtures (such as a waterproofer).
What are admixtures and how do I use them?
Admixtures are used generally by addition to the mixing water to alter the fresh and long term properties of cement based mixtures for a specific purpose. The most common admixtures are:
- Plasticisers: Increase the workability of fresh mixes for a given amount of water allowing less water to be used and thus greater long term strength.
- Waterproofers: Reduce the permeability of the mix.
It is essential that the manufacturer’s instructions are followed precisely as overdosing can have serious effects
Can my cement still be used once it has passed its use by date?
Does Blue Circle Snowcrete have a shelf life?
Snowcrete is naturally low in Chromium V1 which means there is no H&S requirement for a shelf life. Most cement contains an agent to reduce the levels of Chromium V1.
Does Blue Circle Hydralime have a shelf life?
Can I still use my cement if some has gone hard or there are lumps in the bag?
Can my cement bags be stored outside?
How should I dispose of plastic packaging?
Tarmac’s Blue Circle cement bags are recyclable. Look for the corresponding marking on the bag.
The home/DIY user can put the empty bag directly in their bin as domestic waste if the local authority or council does not collect this type of plastic separately.
For construction site users, you may have the option to wash the residual cement from the bag, the bag can be recycled just like any other polyethylene bag. However, it is not advised to wash cement slurry down the drain.
Another option is to add a small amount of water and allow any residual content to solidify. The solid material can be disposed as inert concrete waste and the plastic recycled.
Can Mastercrete be used underground?
I have been asked for a C30 mix. What is it?
C30 refers to a characteristic 28 day compressive strength of 30 N/mm². It depends on a number of factors including, among others, water:cement ratio, workability requirements, aggregate properties, specified minimum cement content, use of admixtures and additives. Nominal mix proportions for various purposes and requirements can be sourced through the Tarmac Blue Circle Cement Technical Helpdesk. If a specific strength requirement is specified trial mixes are strongly recommended.
I want to make a mix that is easy to place. Should I add lots of water to make the mix sloppy?
No! The addition of extra water to a mix will indeed make a mix that is far easier to place due to the higher workability. However, major problems can occur if this is carried out. Cement based mixes are generally stronger in the long term with the least amount of water needed to give the desired workability/consistency or a low water to cement ratio. With a high water to cement ratio, the strength of the mix will be reduced. Also, segregation (aggregate falling to the bottom of the mix) and bleeding (water rising to the surface) may occur, thus further reducing the mix strength and durability performance. In general terms use the minimum water content that allows for placement and finishing.
Is it true that concrete can be overworked when finishing off to a smooth surface?
How long will it take for the Blue Circle High Strength Concrete (40N) to gain maximum strength?
When using Snowcrete my mortar has turned red. Why is this?
All of the solid constituents in a mortar (cement, lime, fine sand) will contribute to the final colour of a mortar. The use of a light, clean sand is thus essential if a white final mortar is required. Trial mixes should be carried out in small disposable cups and an exact note of the various proportions and sand types marked on the cup. This will allow consistency of colour throughout the job.
Can I add extra water to mortar if it starts to harden on the spot board, to make it more workable again, or should I throw it away?
Once the mortar has begun to set, the addition of extra water will not make any difference as the mortar is now non-workable. Even with or without the addition of water, if the set mix is reworked, this will cause major damage to the structure of the mortar. This will in turn seriously affect both the strength and durability properties and so it is thus vital that the mortar is fully placed prior to the setting time.
What colour will the quality assured mortar dry to?
The freshly mixed mortar is dark grey, but it then hardens to a pale grey colour. We recommend using mortar purchased in one batch to complete the whole job.
What is the difference between hydraulic and non-hydraulic lime?
What is the difference between Hydraulic lime and Hydrated lime?
Hydraulic lime is used for the restoration and repair of historic buildings which enables building movement and breathability allowing any damp to evaporate.
Hydrated lime (Blue Circle Hydralime) is used as a workability aid with cement and sand to make a more cohesive mix. This is especially good if you are in an area of the country which has poor sand quality. This can also be used to make lime putty or a lime wash.
What is the most general rule for renders?
The most general rule for renders is that each coat is thinner and weaker than the coat preceding it. Curing is important for effective rendering and it is recommended that each coat is covered for a minimum of 3-5 days before applying next coat.
If I use Blue Circle Snowcrete for rendering will it be white?
Sourcing a good light sand will give the closest possible colour to white. If you used a darker sand this would most likely give a more orange effect to the render. The colour of the sand used alongside the Snowcrete would have an impact on the overall colour of the end result.
How thickly or thinly should screeds be applied?
A floor screed is a layer of mortar consisting of cement and clean, sharp sand. Traditional screeds are NOT intended as a wearing surface and as such tiles, carpets etc are needed to cover the screed.
- Bonded, to a concrete base, 20-40mm thick.
- Unbonded, over a damp proof course, minimum 50mm thick.
- Floating, over insulating material, minimum 65mm thick.
A screed has recently been placed, so when can I lay carpet on it?
How much of my fencepost should be under the ground?
How much water should I use for Blue Circle Postcrete and can I put the Postcrete in before the water?
Blue Circle Postcrete should be used as per the method on the bag. Fill the hole one third with clean water and add the Postcrete on top of the water. Allow 5-10 minutes for the initial set. You will be able to hang a fence panel in as little as 10 minutes!
What is lime bloom and how can I prevent/remove it?
Lime Bloom is a crystalline or powdery deposit that forms on the surface of cement based products and brickwork. It is normally white in colour. Efflorescence occurs when soluble salts in the concrete, mortar, render or brickwork come into contact with the atmosphere. As the construction dries out, water dissolves the soluble salts, carrying them in solution to the surface where they are deposited when the water evaporates. It tends to form predominantly in cold, damp conditions.
Although efflorescence is unsightly, it is not usually harmful to the concrete or masonry and can normally be removed by stiff brushing or in severe cases a mild brick cleaning acid.
Concrete or mortar is dry so why is it not strong?
The cement in concrete and mortar hardens by a chemical reaction with water so if there is no water present then essentially no further strength development will occur. It is thus vital that the mix is kept in a moist condition for the first few days after it has set.
Common causes of moisture loss from exposed concrete or mortar surfaces are: high ambient temperatures, exposure to direct sunlight, drying winds and excessive suction of moisture by surrounding porous materials.
Common prevention methods are to cover with damp hessian and/or plastic sheeting (being sure that this does not mark the concrete) to prevent evaporation, prewetting of surrounding porous materials, misting (for use especially with mortars and renders) with light water spray at regular intervals and pooling water on horizontal surfaces.
Removal of stains from slabs?
What cement should I use for concrete directly exposed to sea water?
A Portland-fly ash cement such as Blue Circle Sulfacrete is a good choice for concrete in these circumstances (look for the designation CEM II/B-V +SR) as it get progressively more impermeable with time and has a greater chemical resistance to the chlorides present in sea water. Sea water does not significantly attack good quality concrete, but it can cause rusting of any embedded metal which may eventually crack the concrete. Concrete exposed to sea water should always have a low water/cement ratio (below 0.55), high strength (C30 or above) and must be properly cured in order to develop its full resistance to seawater penetration. For reinforced structural concrete seek specialist advice.